When in LA…Where the Sun Sets: Brauts, and Fries, and Mustards, Oh My!

By Clayton Porter

The Drink: Water
The Dish: Kielbasa with Spicy Peppers, Beligum Fries, Mustards
The Place: Wurstkuche
The Location: 800 E 3rd Ste, Los Angeles, CA 90013
For Local Fans of: Short Leash, Schreiners Fine Sausages, The Vig

When you think of weekend brunch what comes to mind? Mimosas, Bloody Mary’s, eggs benedict and hash browns, probably? Breakfast tacos, perhaps? People who suggest the activity never complain about the wait, the prices, or the service until they are enduring them. This isn’t a proclamation against brunch, I for one never turn down an invite, but rather to say that I experienced none of the above complaints one Sunday just past 11am when I strolled into Wurstkuche’s Downtown Los Angeles location.

Having spent the morning riding my bicycle along the LA River bike path, the banana and blueberry muffin I had for breakfast long losing the battle to keep my hunger tamed. I walk into a restaurant that more often then not features a line of customers out the door. This morning though I find only a few patrons ahead of me.

Wurstkuche likes you to think that it is an exotic sausage restaurant with a unique variety of Belgium and German beers on tap. But really, the food is just a vehicle for an array of extraordinary mustards to make their way to your mouth-more on this conspiracy later though.

The sausage menu is divided into three categories; Classic, Gourmet and Exotic. The “Classics” are ones you’ve seen before and most likely grilled yourself; Bratwurst, Hot Italian and then for your vegetarian friend that has come along, a selection of veggie sausages.

The “Gourmet” section is where things start to get a little fancier then your typical grocery aisle; Filipino Maharlika, Mango Jalapeno with Chicken and Turkey, The Austin Blues is filled with hot and spicy smoked pork.

With “Exotic” we find unassuming meats paired up and combined in the same link; Buffalo with beef and port, rattlesnake and rabbit, and then some on its own like duck and bacon or pheasant with herbs.

Each sausage order comes with a choice of caramelized onions, sauerkraut, sweet or spicy peppers.

Now what’s a true meal without a side dish and what’s the best side of them all? Fries. Here it’s Belgium fries served in two different sizes with your choice of sauces varying from buttermilk ranch to chipotle aioli.

Now what to drink? Wurstkuche keeps an arsenal of German and Belgian beers on tap and for the most part ones you rarely see even at a local craft beer bar.

I pay for my order, take a table number and walk down a long hall to the dining room. The room is an industrial setting with larger communal tables in the middle and smaller ones around the side. To one side is a bar for you to order your second, third and fourth rounds of beer.

It’s time to talk mustard. At each table, in large plastic bottles, at your disposal is as follows: Whole Grain, Dijon, Spicy Brown, Honey Mustard and American Yellow. These bad boys are the real reason you come to Wurstkuche.

My food arrives and its time to chow down. Sticking partially to my Eastern European roots I go with the Kielbasa sausage but top it off with hot peppers. Its spicy, salty, fatty and greasy-everything you want it to be. The fries are crisp, hold a slight crunch and have a fresh potato flavor to them. Remember, even with these descriptions all are just vehicles for array of mustards.

Now, you’re expecting me to describe what beer I got. Well, I didn’t get one. Maybe if I hadn’t been biking all morning or maybe if I was there with someone else, but I passed on a brew that day. How could I? Looking back, I am regretting it but at the time water was enough for me.

I enjoy my meal, taking time to try each mustard and to apply some to each bite of sausage and yes, of fries. The whole grain is, in peanut butter terms, chunky with mustard seeds making a nice texture. The Dijon is tart and sweet at the same time. Spicy brown has a kick to it, but just the right amount. The honey mustard is as sweet as you would hope it would be. Lastly, the American, the classic taste is perfect just like a early summer backyard BBQ. And just when you thought this was too much sauce for one sitting I had ordered a tangy BBQ sauce to go along with my fries as well.

Finishing up the meal I am reminded why Wurstkuche during peak hours is busy with a line out the door. While similarly true for its Venice location, the downtown Los Angeles spot serves to be a great pick if you are in the area looking for a bite and beer for the evening. Or hoping to have a good meal before taking your drinking over to Angel City Brewery or Arts District Brewery close by.